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Three overlapping sheets of translucent tracing paper in cool, warm and neutral washes laid over a pencil sphere, with a flat brush and a verdigris copper tray
PlateThree overlapping sheets of translucent tracing paper in cool, warm and neutral washes laid over a pencil sphere, with a flat brush and a verdigris copper tray

Layer Blend Modes for Shading, Explained

BeginnerPhotoshopProcreateClip StudioKrita
In short

For shading, four layer blend modes cover almost everything. Multiply darkens and holds the surface hue, so it carries shadow. Screen lightens gently for soft light and glow. Add lightens hard for the few hottest highlights. Overlay pushes contrast and temperature to unify the image. Stack them above your flats in that order, each at its own opacity.

Blend modes look like a long intimidating list, but for shading you only need four, and each has one clear job. Once you know which of the layer blend modes does what, you stop guessing and start placing light and shadow deliberately, and you can change your mind about the light without repainting a single flat. This tutorial gives the four modes, a worked layer stack with opacities and colors, the order to build it, and the fixes when a mode misbehaves, and it sits in the digital painting fundamentals pillar, and it assumes the values in painting already read in greyscale; modes refine a value structure, they do not create one.

Multiply is for shadow

A layer set to Multiply darkens everything beneath it and never lightens. That makes it the natural home for shadow. Paint your shadow shapes in a mid neutral or a slightly cool color on a Multiply layer above your flats, and they sink into the base color without turning muddy. Lower the opacity to soften the whole shadow pass at once.

Why it stays clean

Multiply multiplies the color values together, so a shadow painted this way keeps the hue of the surface underneath instead of covering it with grey. That is why Multiply shadows look like shadow and grey paint on a Normal layer looks like dirt.

Color choice matters more than most tutorials admit. A pure grey on Multiply desaturates the surface; a shadow color with a little hue in it, such as a dull violet over warm skin or a dull blue over green cloth, keeps the shadow alive. Start around 40 percent lightness and 20 to 30 percent saturation and adjust from there. Two Multiply layers stacked read as two depths of shadow: a broad form shadow at 50 to 60 percent opacity, and a small occlusion pass at 70 to 80 where surfaces touch.

Screen and Add are for light

Screen is the opposite of Multiply: it only lightens, and it lightens gently because it can never push past white in one step. Use it for soft direct light, rim light, glow and atmosphere. Add (called Linear Dodge in Photoshop and Clip Studio) is Screen with the volume turned up; it sums the values and blows toward white fast, so reserve it for the hottest highlights, a lamp filament, a spark, the sun catching an edge. A little goes a long way, and on a dark base it will clip to pure white before you expect it to.

The W3C Compositing and Blending specification gives the exact formulas: Screen is 1 minus (1 minus base) times (1 minus blend), so the result approaches white without reaching it, while Add is a plain sum that clips. That single difference is the whole reason Screen is the everyday light layer and Add is the accent.

Overlay is for pushing color and contrast

Overlay darkens the darks and lightens the lights at once, using the value beneath to decide which. It is how you unify a painting: drop a warm color over the lit areas and a cool color into the shadows on one Overlay layer, and the whole image reads as sitting in a single light. Keep the opacity low, 20 to 30 percent to start; Overlay is strong, and at full strength it crushes the mid values you spent the block-in protecting. Soft Light is a gentler Overlay for when even 20 percent is too much.

A worked layer stack for shading

This is the stack used on the plate above, from the bottom up. Every layer above the flats is clipped to them so nothing spills outside the silhouette. Opacities are starting points; the color column names the kind of color, since the exact hue depends on your palette.

A five-layer shading stack: each layer, its blend mode, a starting opacity, the color to paint with, and the job it does.
Layer (bottom to top)ModeOpacityColorJob
01 FlatsNormal100Local color of each surface, mid valueThe base every mode reads from
02 ShadowMultiply50 to 60Dull, slightly cool mid-tone (about 40 percent lightness)Form shadow: one soft shape per object
03 OcclusionMultiply70 to 80Same hue as Shadow, darkerSmall dark accents where surfaces touch
04 LightScreen30 to 50Pale warm color, never whiteDirect light on the lit planes, rim light
05 HighlightAdd20 to 40Warm near-whiteTwo or three hottest spots only
06 BounceScreen or Normal15 to 25Color of the nearby surface or groundReflected light inside the shadow side
07 UnifyOverlay20 to 30Warm over light, cool over shadowPulls the whole image into one light
08 AdjustNormal30 to 50Sampled from the paintingHand fixes for anything the modes got wrong

Numbering the layers is part of the method, not decoration. When a client or a critique asks how a piece was made, a stack that reads 01 Flats through 08 Adjust is a process record in itself. The documenting your art process tutorial covers keeping that layered file alongside roughs and a timelapse so the shading order is provable later.

The order to build shadow, light, bounce and color

Build in this sequence and you can change your mind about the light at any stage without repainting, because each decision lives on its own layer. A highlight placed before the shadow shape exists nearly always lands in the wrong spot.

Step 01

Flats first, and check them in greyscale

Lay the local colors on 01 Flats at their mid value. Toggle a black Color layer on top: the flats alone should already separate as shapes. If they do not, fix the values now; no mode will rescue them.

Step 02

Shadow shape on Multiply

On 02 Shadow, paint one soft shadow shape per object with a hard-ish brush, then soften only the terminator. Decide the light direction here and do not move it later. Add 03 Occlusion last, small and dark.

Step 03

Light on Screen, then the accent on Add

On 04 Light, paint the lit planes with a pale warm color at 30 to 50 percent. Only when that reads, add two or three Add highlights at 20 to 40 percent on 05 Highlight. If you need more than three, the Screen layer is too weak.

Step 04

Bounce into the shadow

On 06 Bounce, feather a little of the ground or nearby surface color into the shadow side, away from the occlusion. This is what stops the shadow reading as a flat cut-out.

Step 05

Unify with Overlay, then hand-fix

On 07 Unify at 20 to 30 percent, warm over the light and cool over the shadow with a large soft brush. Finish on 08 Adjust with sampled colors for any edge or transition the modes could not handle; hard and soft edges are decided here.

Changing the light later

Move the light source by repainting 02 Shadow and 04 Light only. The flats, occlusion, bounce and unify layers usually survive with small edits. That is the whole payoff of keeping every decision on its own mode.

Where the modes live, and what they are called

The four modes exist in every major painting app. Photoshop lists Add as Linear Dodge (Add) and Adobe's blending mode descriptions page defines each in plain words. Procreate keeps them under the N badge on each layer, as described in the Procreate Handbook's blend modes page. The Krita Manual's blending modes reference groups them by family, Darken, Lighten and Mix, which is a useful habit to borrow. The layer modes cheat sheet lists the names side by side across apps.

Troubleshooting: when a mode misbehaves

Common problems with layer blend modes for shading, the cause, and the fix.
ProblemCauseFix
Multiply shadows look grey and deadShadow color is a pure grey or blackUse a dull hue at about 40 percent lightness; try cool over warm surfaces
Multiply shadows are too dark on dark surfacesMultiply compounds with an already dark flatLower the layer to 30 to 40 percent on dark objects, or paint the shadow lighter
Add highlights blow out to flat whiteAdd sums and clips; the color was too lightDrop to 20 percent, paint with a warm mid-light instead of white, or switch to Screen
Screen light looks chalkyThe light color is desaturated or near whiteUse a saturated pale color; Screen lifts value on its own
Overlay crushes the mid valuesOpacity too high, or the Overlay color is too dark or too lightDrop to 20 percent; keep Overlay colors near mid value; try Soft Light
Modes spill outside the objectLayers are not clipped to the flatsClip every shading layer to 01 Flats

Layer blend modes for shading, in short

Multiply for shadow, Screen for light, Add for the two or three hottest spots, Overlay at low opacity to unify, and a numbered stack built in that order over flats that already read in greyscale. That is all the layer blend modes for shading you need for most work. For the same modes laid out as a one page table with names across apps, keep the layer modes cheat sheet open while you paint.

Common questions

What blend mode is best for shading?

Multiply, because it only darkens and keeps the hue of the surface beneath it, so shadows painted on a Multiply layer look like shadow instead of grey paint. Use a dull, slightly cool color at around 40 percent lightness and 50 to 60 percent layer opacity, then add a second, darker Multiply layer for small occlusion where surfaces touch.

Should I use Screen or Overlay for lighting?

Screen for the light itself: it lightens without pushing contrast, so lit planes and rim light stay clean. Overlay for the final unifying pass at 20 to 30 percent, where it warms the lights and cools the shadows at once. Add is for the two or three hottest highlights only, because it clips to white quickly.

What is the difference between Add and Linear Dodge?

They are the same mode under two names. Photoshop and Clip Studio call it Linear Dodge (Add); Procreate and Krita call it Add or Addition. It sums the layer and base values and clips at white, which is why it is brighter and harsher than Screen and should be kept to small highlights at low opacity.

Why do my Multiply shadows look muddy?

Almost always because the shadow color is a neutral grey or black, which strips saturation from the surface, or because the flats beneath have no value separation to begin with. Repaint the shadow with a dull hue that has some color in it, check the flats in greyscale, and lower the layer opacity to 50 percent.

Sources and further reading

Primary references for the facts and definitions in this piece, all from independent publishers:

Related reading

  • Blend Modes Cheat Sheet for Digital PaintingThe blend modes that do the real work in digital painting, what each does to the pixels beneath it, the job it is best suited for, and a starting opacity. Keep it open while you paint.
  • Values in Painting: Why Your Color Looks OffIf a painting looks wrong in color, it is almost always wrong in value. Build the value structure in three greys before you touch hue, and color becomes the smaller half of the job.
  • Hard and Soft Edges: Controlling the EyeEdges are a language. Where you put hard, soft and lost edges tells the viewer where to look, what a surface is made of, and how fast a form turns away from the light.
  • How to Document Your Art ProcessA repeatable way to keep thumbnails, construction, session saves, layered files and timelapse so you can show exactly how a piece was made, and prove authorship when someone asks.